Background. The MX5 was launched in September 1989 to universal acclaim in the media. The car was conceived from the ground up with all new parts. No production constraints were allowed to compromise the design. One Motor Journalist made the comment that Mazda had cut down trees to make fresh paper on which this new car was to be designed. (I think you understand what he meant !)
The idea behind the car was simple. A no compromise Roadster that would be affordable yet fun. Take the best of what the British sports car had to offer and add Japanese reliability.
Thus an engine in front and rear wheel drive. A hood that would be easy to use and not leak. Double wishbone suspension all round. An almost perfect distribution of weight (500 kg over the front wheels 460 kg over the rear wheels)
A modern fuel injected 16 valve engine that would provide responsive performance without putting insurance premiums through the roof. A tuned exhaust that would recapture the magic of the pushrod MGs and Triumphs.
Steering and handling that would provide the purest sports car experience.
A gearbox with a slick and precise movement.
A simple and non complicated design that would provide trouble free motoring and keep maintenance costs to a minimum. And yet a design with all the modern features of power steering, electric windows and fuel injection.
For the Japanese Market the car was introduced as the Eunos Roadster. For Europe it was called the Mazda MX5 and in the USA the Miata.
Production was as follows:
| Year | Roadster | MX5 | Miata |
| 1988 | 12 | 0 | 0 |
| 1989 | 45,266 | 9,307 | 34,021 |
| 1990 | 95,640 | 25,226 | 67,400 |
| 1991 | 63,434 | 22,594 | 40,729 |
| 1992 | 52,712 | 18,657 | 34,096 |
| 1993 | 44,743 | 16,789 | 27,909 |
| 1994 | 39,623 | 10,830 | 29,079 |
| 1995 | 31,886 | 7,178 | 27,648 |
| 1996 | 33,610 | 4,413 | 29,231 |
In what Mazda set out to achieve they were successful. In fact so much so that a new market was created for affordable Roadsters. Fine models from MG, BMW, Fiat and Toyota were soon providing serious competition. Mazda fought back with the MK2 in 1998 but sales never quite achieved the heady levels of the early 1990s. Mazda had become victims of their own success!
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Specifications: Eunos Roadster
1989 to 1993
| Engine | 1598cc |
| Cylinders | 4 DOHC |
| Power | 118 bhp @ 6,500 |
| Weight | 950 kg |
| 0-60 mph | 9.0 seconds |
1989 to 1993:
| Engine | 1839cc |
| Cylinders | 4 DOHC |
| Power | 132 bhp @ 6,500 |
| Weight | 980 kg |
| 0-60 mph | 8.2 seconds |
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Differences between Eunos Roadster and MX5.
1. Engine management is different. We have not yet heard of one of these units giving trouble, however they can be sourced cheaply used in the UK.
2. Rear number plate surround is square. The part for the UK MX5 will fit if required.
3. Auto gearbox available on early Roadsters but only recently offered on the MK2 MX5. (Mazda must have only recently realized how big the demand for automatic sports cars in the UK is!) Used auto gearboxes can be sourced cheaply in the UK.
4. Speedo is in kilometres. No rear fog lamp is fitted and the radio has limited range. These first two items need to be modified before the car is used in the UK.
5. Badges are different. Do not change these; be proud of your Roadster!
6. Japanese Roadsters usually have a high specification with air con, speakers in the headrests, chrome kick plates and speaker surrounds, a brake light in the boot lid, extra tie bar on rear suspension, and leather and wood interior on the Vspecial models. (Special edition UK models may have some of the above, standard models do not)
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Spare Parts. It can be difficult getting spare parts for some imports, particularly at a reasonable price. This is not a problem for the Eunos Roadster, however, as virtually all the parts are interchangeable with the MX5. In addition there are several companies that import salvage Roadsters from Japan for parts, thus providing a source of very reasonable, high quality used parts for owners of Eunos Roadsters, and even for owners of officially imported MX5s.
KaYu Autos in Coventry are an excellent source of used parts at reasonable prices. Phone: 024-76318729
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Underseal: You may have heard that Japanese Imports are not undersealed. This is true for most imports, as corrosion does not tend to be a problem in Japan. The good news however, is that the Eunos Roadster is undersealed when manufactured. Even better news is the fact that they rarely if ever salt the roads in Japan in winter. They tend to use winter tyres instead, plus they get less severe weather. As a result imported Eunos Roadsters tend to be very clean and rust free. It is often rust which determines a cars life, particularly with models that are mechanically reliable, as is the MX5/Roadster. This is particularly important for convertibles, as they always tend to maintain a good residual market value, even if quite old, provided condition is okay. (Just look at what a nice 25 year old MG is worth!) It is almost as if imported Roadsters begin their corrosion life when they arrive in the UK from Japan. Even 10-year-old Roadsters can look like new underneath when inspected over a pit. (I wonder can the same be said for a 10-year-old British MX5 exposed each winter to salted roads?)
On that note if you are thinking of buying an early UK MX5 (Or an imported Roadster that has been in the UK for several years) get it carefully checked out for rust, particularly around the wheel arches. It is all very well advertising it as a UK car when time comes to sell it. However nobody will want it if it is badly corroded!
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Reliability: The MX5/Roadster is both reliable and durable. The car has no significant weak points, everything works and continues to do so for a very long time. Obviously there are certain minor things to look out for as the cars age.
1. Electric windows tend to get stiff with age. It is not that the electric motor is getting weak, but that the up and down movement is getting stiff. Eventually the motor will fail from the extra load. The mechanism needs to be lubricated about once every 2 years. Remove the interior door panel and grease the runners. Also use a rubber lubricant (available in a spray can from most Motor Factors) on the plastic runners at the sides. (Where the edge of the glass makes contact with the frame.)
2. The clutch slave cylinder tends to go at about 60,000 miles.(sometimes earlier) This will be noticed by a requirement to top up the clutch fluid. Keep an eye on the fluid. If it goes low the clutch will not disengage and could leave you stranded. If the gears appear to be grating this is probably the fault. The replacement part is inexpensive.
3. Strangely the hinges on the bonnet tend to seize up, making the bonnet difficult to open and close. This usually strains the brackets and causes the bonnet to go out of alignment. Spray WD40 on the bonned hinges. If they are seized, work them up and down until they free out. Washers placed under the bolts on the brackets will compensate for any strain and restore the panel gaps between the bonnet and the wings.
4. That's about all that tends to give any trouble, and only after about 10 years or so! Obviously the soft top has a finite life and will need to be replaced once worn. Roadsters left unused for a few months tend to sound tappety when started up. Once they are driven for an hour or so and the engine lubricates itself this noise disappears. (The engine is a very reliable unit)
5. The gearbox is very tough and reliable. However early Roadsters (1989 to 1993) only have a single synchromesh cone on the first to second gear. This causes a stiff gear movement when cold. There is no solution for this, all early cars are affected. However a good synthetic oil improves the situation. Redline gearbox oil is recommended and is available from Moss www.miatamania.com
6. The oil in the differential needs to be changed on a regular basis. Redline differential oil is recommended (See 5 above)
7. It is recommended to change the timing belt at 60,000 miles (100,000km) However the MX5 has a non-interference engine so failure of the timing belt should not cause engine damage. However better safe than sorry!
8. Happy motoring!
Soft
top. In general the life of a Roadster/MX5 soft top from new is about 10 years.
This will depend upon how often it is used. First signs that the soft top is
coming to the end of its life is cracking on the seams just above the doors.
Soft tops are available professionally fitted for as little as £400.
Nevertheless, it is worthwhile carefully checking the condition of the soft top
when buying a used car. The plastic rear window does tend to have a shorter
life, perhaps five years or so. However the life of the rear window can be
extended if some care is taken. It is recommended, when letting down the soft
top, to firstly unzip the rear plastic window. This prevents it from creasing or
from cracking. However this can be a little bit difficult to do particularly if
the car is fitted with a style bar behind the driver's seat. A very clever idea
is to make up a foam roll just slightly less in length than the width of the
plastic window. Pipe insulation foam made by Climaflex available from B&Q at £2.98 is perfect
for the purpose When letting down the soft top it is no longer necessary to
unzip the rear window. Just place the roll in the middle of the plastic window
on the outside and let the soft top down folding the window around it. This will
prevent any damage to the rear window and in fact will help to preserve its
condition better than if it is unzipped. An added bonus is that the roof can be
let down or back up in about 10 seconds! The roll can be stored in the boot and
does not take up too much space.
Click here for photo of rear window roll.
Drain Holes for Soft Top. The soft top on the Roadster/MX5
has an unusual design in one aspect. Rain water flows down the rear of the soft
top and along the rails into channels inside the car! Here it flows into drain
holes on either side and from there to the ground under the car. However dust is
collected with the rain and eventually builds up to block the drain holes inside
the car. The drains then overflow sending the water into the sills on either
side. This can be heard as water sloshing around when the brakes are applied.
One other unpleasant effect is that the interior of the car becomes damp and
smelly or mouldy if left unused.
It
is therefore important to regularly clear out the drain holes. A wire clothes
hanger is useful for the purpose if straightened out. However be sure to round
off one end by folding an inch or so back on itself. (The end that will be
sticking up in the air when reaming out the drain hole) This is to prevent
accidentally punching a hole in the fabric of the soft top while
enthusiastically plunging out the hole !! (We used to see a lot of Roadsters
coming in from Japan with tiny holes in the soft top above the drain holes. It
took us a while to figure out what was going on !)
If water has already got into the sills under the doors it can be let out by removing a 10mm bolt in the sill under the car. Not a bad idea to leave the bolt out for a couple of days while driving in order to get all the water out. But do remember to replace the bolt!
Leaking Soft Top. One of the big advantages on the Roadster/MX5 when introduced in 1989 was that it actually had a soft top that kept the weather out! Up to that time enthusiasts had to accept a certain amount of leakage as part of the pleasure of soft top motoring. However, although the Mazda soft top was a big step forward it is not totally rain proof.
1. Many owners will notice a small amount of water coming in at the edge of the window frame. (It usually drips onto your right knee when you start driving after a prolonged shower of rain!) This is usually because the clamps that secure the soft top to the roof are loose. Release the clamps as if letting the roof down. Re-tighten and check to see that there is a solid 'over centre motion' to the clamp. In other words it should take a certain amount of force to close the clamp in order to tighten the frame of the soft top to the frame of the front window. Careful inspection of the clamp will reveal a hexagonal adjustment held in position by a plastic clip. Undo the clip (see photo) and turn the screw a couple of flats. Trial and effort is needed here as it is impossible to remember which direction tightens or loosens the clamp!! Adjust until the clamp requires a certain amount of force to lock the roof shut. When this is done on both sides it should provide a good seal. However........ Water leakage has a certain memory!! What happens is that the leak creates a track that it keeps finding, even when the clamps are tight. So choose a dry day, let the roof down, and clean the edge of the front window frame and soft top frame with a damp cloth. Allow to dry before closing. A good idea is to apply a very small amount of Vaseline to the edge of the frame as shown. This should solve the problem.
2. There is a good product on the market to re-proof the material of the soft top. It is called Croftgate Exterior Vinyl and Rubber Protection wax and is available form JazBags. www.jazbags.com It probably adds to the life of the soft top as well.
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Colours.
When the MX5 was first sold in 1989 it was
introduced in four colours. Red, silver, white and blue. In 1990 the British
Racing Green was introduced as a special edition model, called the V special. A
limited edition yellow model was also introduced as a J special model. In later
years other colours were introduced. The blue was dropped and a metallic blue S
special model was introduced. There was also a navy model with red leather
interior. Because of the rather limited range of colours available for the car
some specialist firms in Japan have made a business out of changing the colour
to order. For a fee you have your
car painted in any colour of your choice. And a very good job they do too. Over
the years A&F have imported a small number of these colour changed cars and
have been quite impressed with the standard. There is something nice about
having an MX5 in a unique colour, though of course when trying to impress
friends the game is given away as soon as the bonnet is lifted!
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Tuning.
The
Japanese spec 1.6 Roadster has slightly more power than the UK version, 118 bhp
(120PS) as against 115 bhp. (Different engine management) There are various ways
of getting more power out of the engine, some more successful than others.
Non
forced induction.
1. Advance the ignition timing from 10 degrees BTDC to 14
degrees. This is perfectly safe for 95 octane fuel. (Regular unleaded in the UK)
2. Fit a free flow air induction kit. This is worth about
2 bhp. Cost approx £40. A Jackson cold air induction kit will go further by
drawing cold air from in front of the radiator. This is claimed to add up to 12
bhp, but in reality is unlikely to add more than 6 bhp to anything other than a
car that has been sitting for a long while idling. (Causing heat build up inside
the engine compartment) Cost approx £350 expensive !
3. Fit performance plugs (double tipped) and performance
leads. Worth about 1 bhp (More if the parts replaced were below par) Cost approx
£75
4. Fit a
header. This is a performance part that replaces
the existing manifold. Adds about 5 bhp and allows the engine to rev very
smoothly all the way to the red line. About £350 dear but worth it.
5. Fit a free flow performance exhaust. Adds noise and
about 3 bhp if a good one. About £250.
6. The cat can be removed and replaced with a short pipe.
But only if legal to do so! (Cats are not required on cars older than 1993 I
think ! Please check.) This adds about 2 bhp and more fumes into the
environment!
So all the above will add about 18 bhp bringing a 1.6
roadster to about 136 bhp, the max that can reasonably be achieved without
forced induction. The extra power will be noticed above 4,000 rpm with the
engine revving freely and powerfully to the redline. Below 4,000 rpm there will
be no gain.
There
is no point in changing cams or engine management, the engine does not respond
well to it.
The
1.8 will benefit in the same way. 150 bhp should be possible.
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Forced
induction.
The
MX5 has a fairly low compression engine and is a tough and reliable unit. For
this reason it is suitable for turbocharging without the need to reduce
compression rates by removing and modifying the cylinder head. Both
superchargers and turbochargers are available for the MX5, and add considerably
to the power output.
Some
important considerations if going for forced induction.
1.
Do your homework and talk to people who have fitted them. The Owners Clubs are a
very useful place to find enthusiasts who have modified their cars. Go for a
unit that has proven itself from the point of view of cost, fitting, power,
reliability and life.
2.
Do not attempt to fit a supercharger or turbocharger without adequate
intercooling. This is vital.
3.
It is best to get the unit professionally fitted by someone who knows what he or
she is doing. It is not really a DIY job.
4.
The gearbox on the MX5 is good for about 180 bhp. Dont go above this figure
by adjusting boost pressures etc. If you want more power get a different type of
car! (A Boxter is recommended if you can afford it !)
5.
A Torson limited slip differential is a good idea.
6.
More power will require better brakes. Aftermarket parts are available, and 1.8
brakes can be fitted to a 1.6.
7. Then take your car along to a track day and blow all the other MX5s into the weeds!
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Winter Tyres. In Japan it is common in the wintertime to fit studless tyres. This is because they do not tend to salt or grit the roads. As a consequence of this many imported cars arrive from Japan fitted with winter tyres. Although very good in snow and mud conditions, they give poor grip and on wet roads, particularly at motorway speeds. These tyres need to be replaced. They are easily identified by the different thread pattern, and by the markings on the sidewall, which use the words studless or mud and snow. If you were buying an imported car from a reputable dealer you should not have a problem, as he/she will automatically change the tyres for you. However if you are buying it from a different source are importing yourself from Japan it is important to check that it is not fitted with studless tyres. Ordinary Japanese tyres are quite suitable for UK conditions. However they do tend to have a groove pattern which makes them quite noisy on smooth roads at about 40 mph.
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Insurance. When Mazda created the MX5 they were somewhat criticised for not giving the car a more powerful engine. With the benefit of hindsight, the decision has proven to be very wise. Even the 1.6 engine fitted to the earlier models gives the car enough performance to make it feel very nippy and to provide plenty of fun. In recent years insurance premiums have gone up particularly for high-performance cars. In some cases this has seriously eroded the residual value of these cars. Luckily this has not happened for the MX5. It is still possible to get reasonable insurance quotes. However it does help to be over 25.
For Ireland Hibernian seem to have the most competitive quotes.
For the UK:
Adrian Flux - 08700-777888
AON Insurance Group - 01384-552880
Dorset Insurance Group - 01202-302888
Footman James - 0121-5614196
Jap Imports Insurance 01323-848020
Japanese Performance 01275-792270
Opi Insurance - 0870-2420800
Privilege Insurance - 0113-3991000 / 0113-2925555
Tesco Insurance 0845-3004400
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Wacky Roadsters. Some proud owners are just not happy to leave the car as Mazda intended! They wish to add their own individual style. Click on photos below.
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Sunny Britain. Convertibles are very popular in the UK. In fact more popular than the weather might suggest. 47,000 soft tops were sold in the UK in the year 2000. And this is more than Spain, France and Italy all added together!! And convertibles can make a very good investment too. Depreciation is usually the greatest expense in motoring. Convertibles typically depreciate less than ordinary cars. Old convertibles are always worth money provided condition is good. Key to residual value is image and durability. So money spent on a convertible from VW, Audi, Mazda or Mercedes is money well spent. (As any good accountant will tell you!)
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Owners Clubs. It is well worth joining an Owners Club. In the UK there are Chapters covering all areas including Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. Owners generally meet up on a Sunday for a chat, a drive and a bite to eat. The men lift bonnets and peer into engine bays while the women folk watch on in amusement. The latest enhancements and modifications are discussed and website addresses swapped. Track days are regular fixtures and give drivers a chance to try out their skills in relative safety. Excellent information can be exchanged about sources of new and used parts and bargains.
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MX-5 Owners Club UK
Mike Hayward, Membership Secretary
17, Knights Close, Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire, CM23 4BZ, UK
Tel: +44(0)1279-656914 Fax: +44(0)7715-700747 Mobile: +44(0)7803-288159
Pager: +44(0)7669-128889, ICQ #135452309
E-Mail Mike@mx5oc.co.uk, Website Http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/
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MX5 Owners Club Ireland.
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Accessories. Once you have bought your Roadster and perhaps gone along to an Owner's Club meeting you are likely to want to start spending your hard earned money on your car! All sorts of lovely (and horrible) parts and accessories are available.
Left in its original unmodified state the car is pretty good. Do bear this in mind!
However if you must........
1. Roadsters come fitted with 14'' Minilite lookalike alloys. These look nice and suit the car well. However 15'' alloys with low profile tyres give the car much more presence and extra grip. Do go for alloys that are light in weight. It is important for a sportscar to keep the ratio of the unsprung weight (wheels, brake discs, and half the suspension components) to the sprung weight (the rest of the car) as small as possible. Heavy wheels will take away from the cars handling and response.
2. Front and rear spoilers are available. The rear spoilers are cosmetic only and not to everyone's taste. (I like them!!) The front spoiler directs more cool air into the radiator and engine bay and less air under the car. This makes the car more stable at high speeds. It is particularly noticeable on the motorway. Well worth fitting.
3. Style bars bolt on to the turrets behind the seats. They look great particularly with the roof down. Good ones stiffen the body at the rear. (This helps to reduce the scuttle shake that all soft tops suffer from on certain surfaces) Most offer little or no protection in a roll over.
4. Strut braces are designed to stiffen the cars upper body structure. (I cannot notice any obvious difference with mine fitted. Luckily I didn't have to pay for it !!!!)
5. Leather gear gaiters, chrome air vents, wood gear knobs etc can add to the interior if tastefully done.
6. Loads of other goodies are available from chrome cam covers to leather seats. Just how big is your wallet?
Useful Links for accessories and parts.
http://www.lutzedesign.ch/styling.html
http://www.bomexaero.com/bomexusa.html
http://store.yahoo.com/mossmotors/jacksonracing1.html
http://www.ebs-storage.de/buethe/engl/index2.htm
http://63.249.160.29/index.html
http://www.katsurausa.com/kits/Madza.html
http://www.corksport.com/miata/miaindex.html
http://www.adderuk.com/home.htm
http://www.auto-extreme.com/eng/index.phtml
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I would be most grateful for comments on the above. Any useful tips, links or other information would also be appreciated!
Art McCooey.
